It’s been one week since we stood atop of the world and I'm exactly a half a world away in my home officer reflecting on our expedition. I still haven’t come down from 29,029’ and this is fully because of the unbelievable support of friends and family. It seems Everest is something special and unique to each of us. Climber and enthusiast alike. The energy, thoughts, prayers sent up the mountain from all over the world on our behalf was something tangible. I felt it. Our group felt it. We were moved up by it.

Our 2018 Expedition with our Sherpa Guides

Last year when we were stopped short within a few hundred feet of our goal the depths of disappointment transferred across everything in my life. It shouldn’t have been that way since the support of our friends and family was just as strong, but my unmet expectations I suppose were crushing. Having spent so much in terms of effort in every aspect of life to return home safe but unsummited motivated my return.

This year we were fortunate enough to climb during what was the best weather year on record. Temba, our seasoned guide picked the 18^th of May early on in our planning process and we charged to the top with determination and conviction. High winds near the summit caused some doubt within our group but nevertheless the mountain gods permitted our pass and by the time we reached the summit the winds disappeared. We were able to enjoy 30 minutes of unforgettable memories on the rooftop on the world.

The final summit ridge

So much was going through my oxygen starved brain. I wish our dear fried Sange was there with us. I wish Larry and Brandon who deserved to be there were with us.

Last year, the day I returned home I heard about Sange. This year, the morning I returned back our dear guide and friend Gyaljen informed me that our lead guide from last year Sarki had fallen into a crevasse and tragically succumbed to his injuries. Sarki saved our life last year by turning us back from life taking winds and weather. I passed him several times on the mountain this year and the reunion was sweet. None sweeter than passing him along Camp 1 on our descent after our summit. He was heading up with his client and he was like a proud father congratulating his sons on our achievement. He had much to do with getting us to the top this year albeit he wasn’t our guide. Three days later he was gone. He will forever have a place in all our hearts as a kinds, strong, responsible climber who helped me see another day of climbing and let us all know how fragile life on a Himalayan rock can be.

Sarki Sherpa and our 2017 Expdition

Fabian finished his 7^th Summit as well and posed the question to both of us. “So what will we do to occupy our time now?” Our answers were similar. Time to focus on our little ones and do whatever it is they want! We can freely hike without a weight pack and camp with our kids without a training schedule. These are the moments in life that are long overdue and the brief hold has now been lifted.

Fabe and I completing our 7th Summit

Whatever is next or not, we know we’ve got the best fan support on the planet with the biggest ones right behind our own front doors.

With all the love in the world, again we thank you. Thank you for being just as supportive in our failure as in our triumph. For your attention to our families while we were gone and the attention you gave from afar. Our DNA is changed for the better. The relationships forged and lessons learned on the mountain we will take to our valleys and throughout the rest of our lives. We are better because of these mountains and because of you.

SUMMIT!!!!

WOW! That was crazy intense!!  The whole team is now standing on top of the world! We are so proud of them!!!

Ready Set Go

Good news, the team made it to camp 4 this morning around 3am.  I didn't get much info except that it seems like they were stuck behind some crowds and that it was extremely hot again-in their down suits.  And he also told me to "go to sleep! :)"... right.

They are planning to leave for the summit within the next hour!  I thought it was midnight for some reason but either it changed or I had misinformation. It can take anywhere from 9-12 hours.  So keep your eye on the tracker and let's hope and pray that everything goes exactly as planned! Weather and everything else looks good at this point.

https://share.garmin.com/DavidSnow

A view of where they are now..

As I type this, the guys are navigating across the Yellow Band with the Geneva Spur in sight, then on to Camp 4. If you want a visual of this, here's some representative footage from last year right about where they are now..

Here's a picture. The yellow band is the line of horizontal rocks where you can see 3 climbers off in the distance. Beyond that and to the left, the Geneva Spur. After passing the Spur, the team makes the South Col and Camp 4. 

Below is a picture of Tom last year as he gained the steeper section to cross the yellow band. After that, the route flattens out a bit. 

Here's another view of those areas. You get an idea of the steepness of the Lhotse Face.

                                     

One last video from last year, taken just after we crossed over the Spur.

                                 

It's definitely game time. They are less than 24 hours away from being ontop of the world. Conditions look good. They're moving good. They mountain can still throw anything at them, we learned that last year. Now is the exciting time to follow close. I expect they will arrive to Camp 4 within the next 1.5-2 hours, then rest 8-10 hours, then time for the summit push! 

Alan Arnette, on his amazing blog recently published a very spot-on analysis of what goes through a climber's mind as they enter the summit push (below). I plan to write more in the morning. Climb on guys!!

Inside a Climber’s Mind

Leaving the dining tent, you switch on your headlamp to help find your tent even though you have made this walk almost nightly for the last four weeks. But tonight feels differently to you. Its cold and calm compared to the overcast windy ones you recently fought to sleep through. But something else is different, you were just told that you need to pack your summit pack because you leave tomorrow night at 2:00 am for your Everest Summit Push. “Everest Summit Push” you say out loud. This is really happening.

Reaching your tent, you bend over to unzip the front door. Crawling in still feels awkward, you laughed at those “box” tents in the next camp, now you look at them with more than a curiosity. You could sit in a chair, have your sleeping bag on a cot, you could … Everest Summit Push. Three words you have dreamed about for a long, long time. Your headlamp lights up the inside of your tiny home. There are your snacks, book, dirty clothes in the corner. Yeah it’s just like home. Your two duffle bags are crammed in the back rain fly. “Hmm, maybe I should start packing now.” You say out loud but quickly dismiss the thought as your breath condenses in front of your face. Time for bed.

Everyone was a bit quiet, introspective at breakfast the next morning. Everest Summit Push. Walking back to your tent now in the bright morning sun, you walk with a quick step, a new purpose. Grabbing your duffles, you unzip each one with care and stand back. “OK, what do I need.” You have visualized this moment – packing the summit pack but all of a sudden its like you know nothing, have forgotten everything. Sitting on one of the duffles, you take a long drink of tepid water. Your goal today is to drink six liters. You know this will be your last chance for a few days to get all you want. Up “there” getting water is time consuming and something you don’t get as much as you want, or need.

Your mind starts to focus. “What’s already up there?” Your second -20 sleeping bag is at Camp 2 along with your down suit, extra socks and your summit gloves. Your oxygen mask and regulator are also there, or are they? You think for a second. “Yes. I’m certain.” You will wear the same clothes that have done the job on the last couple of rotations: base layer, climbing pants, several jacket layers, helmet, gloves, buff – the regular stuff. Of course you have your sunglasses always on or around your neck and goggles in your pack. “What have I forgotten? Damn, I should have a checklist but I didn’t think I would be this fuzzy.” Funny thing about altitude, it makes you kind of fuzzy at times.

Your pack is lying on the ground. At 70 liters it looks big but all this stuff seems to make a lot of space. It’s not real heavy, maybe 15 pounds max thanks to the Sherpas. A quick glance sees them congregated outside the cooking tents laughing up a storm, kidding each other. This is not their first rodeo. Pasang sees you looking at them and comes over. “Everything good?” He asks with a genuine tone. “Yeah, just trying to remember what I have up there and what I need to bring. The mask and reg are there, right?” “Yes, of course.” He answers probably laughing to himself as he carried them for you on your last rotation when he picked up your pack and simply said “Too heavy.” He started pulling stuff out to put in his pack. “That’s right!” You quickly agree and begin to stuff a few more things in your pack for the climb to Camp 2 in about 12 hours.

After lunch, you take a walk around base camp. Its kind of a strange place with yaks standing on a trail, sound asleep. A random dog will go running by. The sounds are endless, a symphony of sorts. Chanting, rap music from a tent, card players, someone giving a lecture to their team on how to climb. A bit of everything as you walk by the many camps placed side by side on this melting glacier. But soon you are deep in thought. Everest Summit Push.

You have visualized this so many times, its almost like you have been there, but you haven’t. Now you know what its like to go through the Icefall. It’s not as bad as advertised but you know that can change in a blink so this time will be your next to last time and you are glad. The Western Cwm was hot and kind of boring in some ways. You are also glad to get his section behind you. Camp 2 is, well C2 a kind of camp purgatory. A weigh station between better places. The Lhotse Face. “Oh my God, climbing the Face another time.” You remember your first time to C3, while you only tagged it, it was a struggle. No O’s, hard packed ice, crowds. In some ways the worse of Everest and the best. Amazing views – one of a kind.

A smile comes across your face as you step aside to let a train of climbers go past you while you are on your leisurely stroll. You continue your mental climb of Everest. “The South Col, what will that be like?” Described like being on Mars, a stretch because “Who has been on Mars other than Matt Damion? Really how do they …” you calm down a bit and sit on a boulder. You know the schedule. Arrive before noon, try to seep, albeit on Os, drink a bit, force down some Ramen “I hate Ramen Noodles.” You declare out loud. The sleeping yak looks at you and you decide it time to keep walking.

You don’t sleep that night, flipping side to side, your mind races with every thought imaginable. You review your gear list, again. When you do drift off, you wake back up with start. Eyes wide open, you stare at the tent ceiling. Then it happens, “Time to go!” you hear the call from the Sherpas along with the cook banging a metal skillet. I guess it fair that if you have to get up at 1:30 am, so will everyone else! Pasang comes over to check on you as you are pulling your 8000-meter boots on. His headlamp shines in your face. You crank out a weak “Good morning Pasang.” He smiles back. “Namaste.”  Your stomach flips.

Everest Summit Push.

Below is a look of what they will see from their tents soon at Camp 4. You can tell that only a few seconds without O's on and I was struggling to talk in the death zone.

C3

Not much to report, the team made it to C3 and pretty much all went to their individual tents to crash.  The weather yesterday was clouds and snow flurries.  Right now everyone is just resting, Dave said he wanted to refuel and hit the hay.  They plan to leave around 4am to push for C4.  At that point, they will rest for several hours then get ready to head out for the summit, hopefully around midnight or so depending on how it goes tomorrow.  He's still joking around and seems in good spirits.  Although exhausted from this day.  The Lhotse face is brutal. One day more...

-Tiffany

https://share.garmin.com/DavidSnow

Next Up...

The guys had a good rest day at C2 but are all really ready to move on!  The weather still looks favorable for the end of the week but there are some scattered reports of the wind picking up a bit. So many different reports to read, who knows which one is right!  It's also been snowing but Dave said that is better than being in an oven. The plan is to leave around noon tomorrow for C3.  If all goes well they will be there around 4pm give or take.  So 4am our time.  Camp 3 is where they get on oxygen full time.

To give you an idea of the vibe up there, this is what Dave sent to a friend of ours today after they asked how it was going:

I look at Tom. Tom looks at me. Repeat.

At least he hasn't lost his sense of humor :) 

Go Time!

As of this morning, the fixed lines are all the way to the summit!  Many teams have already left, many teams already in place at C2 and even C3. I don't even really want to say this out loud but our team is preparing to leave early early Monday morning (in a about 6 hours) for C2.  If all goes as planned the schedule would be:

Monday: Ice Fall, C1, overnight at C2

Tuesday: Rest, overnight at C2

Wednesday: Climb to C3, start oxygen, overnight at C3

Thursday: Climb to C4, rest for a while, leave for the summit around midnight

Friday, May 18th- SUMMIT!

Last year, they made really good time on summit day but they were also basically the only ones out there.  So who knows how that will factor in this time but I think it's safe to plan to be glued to the tracker Thursday afternoon and evening for those of us in the US.

For anyone that wasn't here last year I will fill you in on how that day went... I remember refreshing my computer every 5 minutes for hours watching them move up towards the summit. It was a completely surreal experience.  I had random acquaintances and friends texting me all day that they were tracking it, people I had no idea were even interested.  I guess it's not every day that you know someone doing something this exciting.  At 28,700' the tracker just stopped.  After several minutes the panic started to set in.  Frantic texts to the other family members and to their base camp manager.  No answers.  For about an hour we all speculated what had happened.  Maybe they had hit a weird patch where the tracker couldn't communicate with the satellite?  Maybe they had reached the summit but it just wasn't tracking anymore?  Did something happen?  Please don't say something happened.  After what seemed like eternity, the tracker slowly started moving down towards camp 4.  

First relief.  Then devastation.  I knew they would be crushed. I knew he would go back.  I knew it would affect him for months.  When he got back to base camp after several days (and a lot of extra low points) we were finally able to text freely again.  He was depressed to say the least. We were talking about the dog and the flight home and other light topics when he texted, "This will haunt me all of my days."  And I said, "No it won't because you will go back."  He replied- "I can't imagine ever going back..." and yet here we are!  It's like childbirth ;) 

 So this time around, let's just have an uneventful, right on schedule summit and trip back down. Miraculously, the weather looks good and every report is of there being a nice open window this week.  There will be lots of summits over the next few days. They will start tracking as soon as they leave. 123, go team!

-Tiffany
view TRACKER here

PS- Happy Mother's Day to all of you wonderful moms out there!  And especially to the Mothers of these four adventure seekers.  You have raised some determined, strong men who you can be so proud of... but it can't be easy to watch your babies go do something like this!

Excitement in the Air!

The team is still resting in Namche today.  They plan to head back up to EBC tomorrow (Saturday) and finish preparations for moving higher up.  They are feeling strong and ready (and a tad bored) :) although nothing like what some other people are experiencing.  Dave told me about talking to a guy from Utah who has been there since March 23rd.  I can't even imagine, I thought 5 weeks was long.  That would be so mentally draining on a climber (and his family at home) but I guess this is common for a lot of teams.  

When companies are putting together expedition groups they don't know exactly what they are going to get as far as clients.  Most people are coming alone and being put together with a team of strangers. They have to make sure everyone has a fair shot and plenty of time to acclimatize, so they make the itinerary nice and long. Everest doesn't require any sort of documentation as to what experience you have, what mountains you have done, what kind of climber you are etc.  Maybe some of these individual companies require some of that info but I'm not sure.  In contrast, when the guys were climbing Denali, they had to basically send their life story and a full climbing history of each climber before they would give a permit.  One of the many differences climbing internationally. 

Luckily our team is very experienced and has a good handle on what this takes.  They are also extremely lucky to have friends/past climbing partners to go with- it's a luxury I don't think they take for granted. Each of these guys knows how to handle altitude, what they personally need to do to stay hydrated, rested, energized, mentally focused, how they needed to train etc.  Of course, something can always throw you for a loop but this is not their first rodeo.

Most of the time when I tell people that Dave is climbing Everest they say- Seriously, have you SEEN the movie Everest??  Or- don't you know people die up there, does he have a death wish!?? Or- I can't BELIEVE you let him do this!  All of these super helpful outbursts are probably well meaning, but most people have no idea what this is actually all about.  What has helped me through is knowledge- researching and talking to people who have actually been there (not basing my info on a movie about one group of people 20+ years ago.)  Knowledge is power, the unknown is scary. Knowing that they are smart, experienced, well prepared... and based on last year that I know they will make that decision to turn around if they need to.  Even if they are only 300 feet from the summit. So thank you everyone for telling me what a nice wife I am (I hear it daily- luckily only about half of the time in a really condescending tone)... but I hope you would all do the same for your spouse.  I wasn't always supportive of this hobby and I can tell you it was miserable going through the preparation and duration of those expeditions.  When I actually decided to get on board and get involved in the story when he climbed Denali, my perspective changed. Because when you have a superhuman driven husband who has a very attainable goal and dream- you step up and sacrifice if you must, and you support it.  Wouldn't you want the same?

Wow, that took a turn! Just something that has been on my mind the past 18 months.

So now let's focus on hope, positivity and good things to come!  Their expedition company, Seven Summits plans to start sending teams up for a summit bid in the next few days. So it could be any day now if all goes according to plan.

-Tiffany

Lap of Luxury (aka Namche)

The team took a helicopter this morning down to Namche (11,000 feet) for rest, relaxation, normal(ish) food, real beds, hot showers and much better internet!  The air is thick and they all are a lot happier :)  It's amazing the difference (last year and this year) when talking to Dave at Namche.  He is upbeat, energetic and overall more relaxed.  They will be there for a few days while waiting for the fixed lines to go all the way to the summit.  By all accounts it seems like this season is going fairly well and they expect the lines to be in soon.  Some weather reports indicate a summit window coming soon, next week we might hopefully see the first summits on the south side.  I have learned not to get excited about that (and they have learned that too.) It's still too early to count our chickens.  But keeping good thoughts and positive vibes!

Here are some pics from their last rotation: 

-Tiffany

C3 Push

The guys set out for Camp 3 this morning but after a few hours were turned back due to high winds.  They got to about 22,700 ft which is still a good run.  They are now back at camp 2 and will head back down to basecamp tomorrow.  The good news is that Tom was able to join them just now at c2 so he is feeling well enough now to have gone through the icefall, camp 1 and camp 2.  Great news!

The guys/guides will figure out a plan of action once they are back at basecamp but will most likely head down to Namche for some R & R (haha sortof) while this high wind storm plays out.  There have been reports of high winds for the next several days so it might be better to sit it out down below in more "normal" circumstances.  The fixed lines are not to the summit yet (I feel like this is deja vu) and most likely won't be until at least the 13th.  This is still pretty early and very normal for this time of year.  I was able to have a sat phone call with Dave for a few minutes and he sounds good.  He said everyone is healthy and feeling good!

C2

No pics but the guys made it safe to Camp 2!  The only thing Dave keeps saying is how hot it is.  Tom has been down with a stomach bug at EBC but is going to try to make the trip up the icefall in the morning.  Everyone keep good thoughts that he will have the energy to push through!  The rest of the group is having a rest day today.  

Dave said it's going well.  By 8pm it's pitch black and cold so the guys end up heading to bed early.  So thankful to have the GPS this year, makes it 100 times easier!

Icefall Pics

Yesterday the team went up through the icefall for the first time this year.  They reported that it did indeed look good- safe, direct, minimal ladders etc.  Dave said it was really hot since they were there during the daytime hours.  They returned to basecamp and will now continue on as planned.

Friday they will set off for a higher up rotation and not return to basecamp until Tuesday.  Once they return on Tuesday, the hope is that they will all be acclimatized and ready for whenever the weather permits a summit push.  The fixed lines are not all the way to the summit yet, so there is still plenty of time to get ready.

Basecamp wifi has been spotty so we have been mostly communicating through the Garmin GPS.  So glad he has that!

Now the Fun Begins

Lobuche Summit Pic

Here is a pic of the team at the top of Lobuche.  They made it down to the tea house and Dave texted me that they might be able to chopper back to EBC.  Pretty soon after than he said the chopper would actually not be able to land because of weather so they would be trekking back up.  In true Everest fashion, about 10 minutes later I got a text that said- "on the chopper." Things change so quickly there! 

 

 

Unfortunately Tom experienced the tooth issues that sometimes come with high altitude climbing.  I don't know why but EVERY time Dave climbs he has issues with broken teeth, teeth needing a root canal etc.  One time a tooth ache almost kept him from a summit.  Last year, he had 2 root canals just before leaving because they were SLIGHTLY bugging him and he didn't want to chance it.  Tom lost this crown, hopefully it's not bugging him too much!

 

They got back to base camp and Dave said they had the best meal he has ever had on Everest which is awesome.  This year, he made sure they would get some good food and maybe a little more protein.  After last year, his toenails all grew white lines in them- which apparently is a side effect of a sudden drastic change in diet, specifically lack of protein.  Crazy stuff.

I loved what Dan said on his Facebook page, it helps us get a glimpse into what they are experiencing there:

"Life here is difficult but we have amenities to make us comfortable. For example, all four of us each have a 3-person tent, equipped with a mattress, pillow and camp chair. The tent is so big I am able to stand in it. We have our own dining hall, with a space heater, charging station and artificial grass floor. We have a shower, which I used today! I am now clean, clean shaven and walking around in civilian clothes. We have huge days ahead, but these comforts help us physically and mentally."

 

Today, the guys had their "Puja Ceremony."  In their words:

We completed our Puja ceremony this morning, a rite a passage for every climber on Everest in order to proceed.

The holy Lama blesses for safe travel, success, and health. We then throw wheat flour, receive a necklace from the Lama that we wear throughout the expedition. 

Tomorrow well test the Khumbu Icefall before taking our 2nd acclimitization rotation, this time to Camp 3.

So... tomorrow the fun begins.  The first steps into the icefall.  Now is the time to start praying :) They will most likely rest on Friday then do a rotation of going to camp 1, camp 2, "touch" camp 3 and then back down.  The whole thing will take about 5 days. 

This is the time period where I had a very small breakdown last year (ok, maybe not so small haha.) Dave didn't have a way to communicate with me for about 4 days (no wifi and he wasn't carrying a GPS device), he was super sick and I was getting some distressing intel from the guide and other group member's wives.  Everything turned out fine and we all learned some great lessons.... like never climb without a GPS texting device unless you want a crazy wife.  Also, don't accidentally omit information about being deathly ill to your wife (although he probably still would.)

Once again, this time is seeming much easier for me and the girls (I hope the other climber's families are feeling the same!)  Hopefully the weather keeps cooperating and they get a good window in about 2 weeks (give or take.)  Still a ways to go but feels good to be almost half way!

-Tiffany

First Rotation- Check!

I've been tracking Dave and texting with him off and on today.  They just got back to Lobuche high camp after reaching the summit at about 7:30am.  They are now back at high camp and resting until they head back to Lobuche tea house.  The plan is to head back to EBC on Monday.

Everything is going well so far.  Dave said It was a tough climb today, lots of snow but beautiful weather and amazing views at the top.  He said everyone did great!

Base Camp!

No pics yet out of EBC but the group made it to 17,600 feet today!

Dave doesn't have wifi yet so we have just been texting through the inreach but he said all is well.  They have a few sick people (not sure what kind of sickness) but I don't think anything enough to alarm anyone.  Dave has stayed really covered up and tried to avoid contact with germs like the plague so he is feeling well so far. I think him and Tom probably have PTSD about last year's sicknesses.

For the guys who are staying, they will head back down to Lobuche tomorrow and spend the night at the tea house there.  The schedule is to climb to Lobuche high camp on Saturday then summit that peak early Sunday morning.  Back to EBC on Monday.

For those of you interested about Everest 2018 coverage, THIS website has tons of great info.  This site was a great lifeline for me last year because Alan would often be the first to get information about weather conditions, events that happened and progress of climbing teams.  So far, I have read that the icefall looks great this year- the best they have seen it in years.  There are only a few ladders and it's a very direct, safe route.  That brings some peace of mind!

Pics to follow!

Lobuche

 Our fearless trekking group!

From Dan's Facebook: 

"Hiked today to the Village of Lobuche at 16,200 feet. The temperature has dropped significantly and it definitely feels like we are high in the mountains!"

This is a cool photo that shows their surroundings!  This is one thing that Dave really noticed when he came back last year, how small our mountains seemed in comparison to where he had been.  He said words just could not describe the majestic mountains of the Himalaya.

Dave and Rich enjoying the beauty!

  

From Left: Rich Bliss, Fabian, Tom and Dave.  

Seven degrees of mountain climbing:

I met Rich's wife Tania several years ago and we started comparing stories of our adventurous husbands.  I knew they would be fast friends and once we introduced them, they were soon planning their first climb together.   Rich was scheduled to go to the top this year with these guys, but due to some unforeseen circumstances he had to postpone that expedition. Luckily, he was still able to come to the base camp trek.  Tania is actually the one that talked me off the ledge when Dave first told me he wanted to do Everest.  Such great people!  Rich is an all around stand up guy and a super good story teller- hopefully he's sitting in the middle of those 20 foot long tea house banquet tables.

When Rich and Dave did Vinson in 2016 they were put in a group with Fabian.  After spending a few weeks freezing and waiting out some crazy weather together, they all hit it off swimmingly.  Dave came home telling me about Fabian, recalling stories they had shared (in his best Australian accent :)   Fab is going for his 7th summit as well and Dave says if anyone can get it- it's this amazing Aussie.  Fab and his darling girlfriend Jodie actually came to visit Utah and had dinner with the Bliss' and the Snow's.  My kids (ok me too) were hanging on every word they said.  He really is such a cool and impressive guy, I'm so glad he was able to go with this group!

Of course you all know Tom, him and Dave have been besties since high school.  He has been with Dave on all but one of these climbs and is always my safety net.  I know if Tom is there, Dave will be ok.  He's not only a skilled climber but such a positive and calming influence on Dave.  They have the same kind of weird humor, watch out for each other and are more like soulmates than friends:) We love you Tommy!

Anyway, that's my sappy recap of the players in this game.  Not a lot of material coming out of Nepal at this point.  Tomorrow, the group will head to Gorak Shep for their last stop before base camp!  From what I hear, overall everyone is doing well and staying pretty healthy so far!