Here's a picture. The yellow band is the line of horizontal rocks where you can see 3 climbers off in the distance. Beyond that and to the left, the Geneva Spur. After passing the Spur, the team makes the South Col and Camp 4.
Below is a picture of Tom last year as he gained the steeper section to cross the yellow band. After that, the route flattens out a bit.
Here's another view of those areas. You get an idea of the steepness of the Lhotse Face.
One last video from last year, taken just after we crossed over the Spur.
It's definitely game time. They are less than 24 hours away from being ontop of the world. Conditions look good. They're moving good. They mountain can still throw anything at them, we learned that last year. Now is the exciting time to follow close. I expect they will arrive to Camp 4 within the next 1.5-2 hours, then rest 8-10 hours, then time for the summit push!
Alan Arnette, on his amazing blog recently published a very spot-on analysis of what goes through a climber's mind as they enter the summit push (below). I plan to write more in the morning. Climb on guys!!
Inside a Climber’s Mind
Leaving the dining tent, you switch on your headlamp to help find your tent even though you have made this walk almost nightly for the last four weeks. But tonight feels differently to you. Its cold and calm compared to the overcast windy ones you recently fought to sleep through. But something else is different, you were just told that you need to pack your summit pack because you leave tomorrow night at 2:00 am for your Everest Summit Push. “Everest Summit Push” you say out loud. This is really happening.
Reaching your tent, you bend over to unzip the front door. Crawling in still feels awkward, you laughed at those “box” tents in the next camp, now you look at them with more than a curiosity. You could sit in a chair, have your sleeping bag on a cot, you could … Everest Summit Push. Three words you have dreamed about for a long, long time. Your headlamp lights up the inside of your tiny home. There are your snacks, book, dirty clothes in the corner. Yeah it’s just like home. Your two duffle bags are crammed in the back rain fly. “Hmm, maybe I should start packing now.” You say out loud but quickly dismiss the thought as your breath condenses in front of your face. Time for bed.
Everyone was a bit quiet, introspective at breakfast the next morning. Everest Summit Push. Walking back to your tent now in the bright morning sun, you walk with a quick step, a new purpose. Grabbing your duffles, you unzip each one with care and stand back. “OK, what do I need.” You have visualized this moment – packing the summit pack but all of a sudden its like you know nothing, have forgotten everything. Sitting on one of the duffles, you take a long drink of tepid water. Your goal today is to drink six liters. You know this will be your last chance for a few days to get all you want. Up “there” getting water is time consuming and something you don’t get as much as you want, or need.
Your mind starts to focus. “What’s already up there?” Your second -20 sleeping bag is at Camp 2 along with your down suit, extra socks and your summit gloves. Your oxygen mask and regulator are also there, or are they? You think for a second. “Yes. I’m certain.” You will wear the same clothes that have done the job on the last couple of rotations: base layer, climbing pants, several jacket layers, helmet, gloves, buff – the regular stuff. Of course you have your sunglasses always on or around your neck and goggles in your pack. “What have I forgotten? Damn, I should have a checklist but I didn’t think I would be this fuzzy.” Funny thing about altitude, it makes you kind of fuzzy at times.
Your pack is lying on the ground. At 70 liters it looks big but all this stuff seems to make a lot of space. It’s not real heavy, maybe 15 pounds max thanks to the Sherpas. A quick glance sees them congregated outside the cooking tents laughing up a storm, kidding each other. This is not their first rodeo. Pasang sees you looking at them and comes over. “Everything good?” He asks with a genuine tone. “Yeah, just trying to remember what I have up there and what I need to bring. The mask and reg are there, right?” “Yes, of course.” He answers probably laughing to himself as he carried them for you on your last rotation when he picked up your pack and simply said “Too heavy.” He started pulling stuff out to put in his pack. “That’s right!” You quickly agree and begin to stuff a few more things in your pack for the climb to Camp 2 in about 12 hours.
After lunch, you take a walk around base camp. Its kind of a strange place with yaks standing on a trail, sound asleep. A random dog will go running by. The sounds are endless, a symphony of sorts. Chanting, rap music from a tent, card players, someone giving a lecture to their team on how to climb. A bit of everything as you walk by the many camps placed side by side on this melting glacier. But soon you are deep in thought. Everest Summit Push.
You have visualized this so many times, its almost like you have been there, but you haven’t. Now you know what its like to go through the Icefall. It’s not as bad as advertised but you know that can change in a blink so this time will be your next to last time and you are glad. The Western Cwm was hot and kind of boring in some ways. You are also glad to get his section behind you. Camp 2 is, well C2 a kind of camp purgatory. A weigh station between better places. The Lhotse Face. “Oh my God, climbing the Face another time.” You remember your first time to C3, while you only tagged it, it was a struggle. No O’s, hard packed ice, crowds. In some ways the worse of Everest and the best. Amazing views – one of a kind.
A smile comes across your face as you step aside to let a train of climbers go past you while you are on your leisurely stroll. You continue your mental climb of Everest. “The South Col, what will that be like?” Described like being on Mars, a stretch because “Who has been on Mars other than Matt Damion? Really how do they …” you calm down a bit and sit on a boulder. You know the schedule. Arrive before noon, try to seep, albeit on Os, drink a bit, force down some Ramen “I hate Ramen Noodles.” You declare out loud. The sleeping yak looks at you and you decide it time to keep walking.
You don’t sleep that night, flipping side to side, your mind races with every thought imaginable. You review your gear list, again. When you do drift off, you wake back up with start. Eyes wide open, you stare at the tent ceiling. Then it happens, “Time to go!” you hear the call from the Sherpas along with the cook banging a metal skillet. I guess it fair that if you have to get up at 1:30 am, so will everyone else! Pasang comes over to check on you as you are pulling your 8000-meter boots on. His headlamp shines in your face. You crank out a weak “Good morning Pasang.” He smiles back. “Namaste.” Your stomach flips.
Everest Summit Push.
Below is a look of what they will see from their tents soon at Camp 4. You can tell that only a few seconds without O's on and I was struggling to talk in the death zone.
Below is a look of what they will see from their tents soon at Camp 4. You can tell that only a few seconds without O's on and I was struggling to talk in the death zone.
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